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Cropped hoodie with lace lining
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Cropped hoodie with lace lining

Posted by Laura 04/09/2017 0 Comment(s) Sewing,Embroidery,

Here's how I made a cropped hoodie with lace lining in the hood. Straight below you can see it on video, and below you can read all about my making process. 

The lace hoodie is not my idea, I just found it randomly a few years back, when it was "in fashion". I wanted to make a goth-style hooded crop top to wear to the gym. The wicked embroidery is designed by Urban Threads, and the pattern is from Joka tyypin kaavakirja, which I think is only in English. The lace came to mind, because I just joined Annika Victoria's Facebook group Make Thrift Buy Community Challenges, and the challenge of the month of August was using lace in a design. 

I began by embroidering my fabric. This was a challenge, since the embroidery is quite thick, so I had to put on some iron-on stabilizer as well as the tear away I use with the hoop. After embroidering, I cut away all of the iron-on stabilizer I could. My earlier attempt to embroider on this fabric left a bunch of black threads on it, but I cleaned it up before I sewed the whole thing together.

When I cut out the back pattern piece, I used the front piece as a guide: I wanted the shirt to be lower in the back, shorter on the front. I just eye balled the cut, to get a nice curve to the back piece hem line. 

Once I had cut out all the pieces I started sewing the shirt together. In this project I used only the serger and the coverstitch machine. I started with sewing the hoods up: I serged the backseam of both inner fabric and lining fabric. 

Then I sewed the shoulder seams together. This is the way I like to construct a shirt: first the shoulders, then adding the sleeves and after that sewing the side seams and the sleeves together. This way I don't have to be so exact with the sleeve, it usually fits perfectly, as opposed to when I used to sew shirts at a younger age and the sleeve would never fit correctly! There would be these awful bumps at the shoulder, when either the sleeve part or the shirt part would stretch a bit when I was sewing them together. It is also faster doing it so that you first sew the shoulder seams and then attatch the sleeve, since I usually had to make a basting stitch when fitting a sleeve to its place. Now I can just serge away!

Next I had to sew the sleeves with thumb holes. I just hemmed the sleeve seam so that there would be a clean edge for my thumb to push through, then I serged the rest of the seam together and made a hem, where my other fingers would come through.

As you can see from the finished project, I used the cover stitch machine so that it made the straight stitches on the inside of my garment, and the decorative stitches on the outside. I love this look, and it is the main reason I ever bought a cover stitch machine. I just haven't been using it that much. 

I decorated all of the seams with the cover stitch machine, even the outer layer of the hood (blue line in picture) - although I thought of this only after attaching the lining to the rest of the hood. Next I sewed another decorative stitching along the edge of the hood (pink line in picture) to keep the lining and top part of the hood together. I also hand stitched the back seams of the hood parts together, so that the lining wouldn't shift  away from its place when I was wearing it. 

After that I just had to attach the hood to the rest of the shirt and stitch a decorative stitch onto the neckline of the shirt. Then I hemmed the shirt and I was done!

I love how this turned out, but the season for cropped tops is over now in Finland. Now it's just cold weather all the way!  The fabric for the shirt was some random one I had bought many years ago, the piece was too small for me to make a longer hooded shirt, but it could have been a long top or a plain shirt without the hood. The lace is a present from my secret Santa a few years back in a sewing group. 

Thanks for stopping by, don't forget to DIY!! :)

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